Bottling for Beginners

Bottling for Beginners

This description assumes you wish to bottle condition/carbonate your new creation. I use a bleach sanitization method which is different from others. This approach is cheap, easy and reliable if you follow the directions and leaves no residues on your bottles/caps. It is easier on the environment than iodine though not without impact. Now we dance the bottling dance!

What you need to prepare

Get together the following equipment in preparation for bottling. It is best to work indoors where there is no breeze in a clean environment like the kitchen. Be sure to turn all ceiling fans and the A/C off prior to beginning the rinsing of the bleach sanitized equipment just prior to bottling (and then remember to turn it on again when you are done). Dress in old cloths so that bleach splashes will not be an issue.

1. Move the secondary fermenter to a stable high place like the kitchen counter (~36 inches off the floor is fine) at least 3 hr and preferably the night before bottling to allow any disturbance in the sediment to settle. Cover with a black garbage bag to protect from light (avoid light-struck skunkiness).

2. Clean your bottles and sterilize in any way you like. I prefer the dishwasher method (http://frogsbottom.auburnbrewclub.org) described on my brewing blog. You need around 54 bottles (12 oz) per 5 gallon batch which allows a few spares in case you break or contaminate any. They take 2 hr in my dishwasher.

3. With about 45 min before the end of the sterilization cycle on the dishwasher, fill a 6 gallon bucket with cold tap water and add 1 cup bleach (nonscented) carefully and stir well. Into the bucket place your hygrometer and test cylinder (to take a specific gravity) and a siphon tube (6-7 ft of clean tygon tubing). Not absolutely required but highly recommended are a bottling cane, a large glass tumbler or mug (must be tall enough to hold the cane during the first part of bottling without tipping to preserve sanitary condition) and a siphon starting pump. Both are available from brew shops and make bottling much easier and cleaner (much less waste and spillage). Canes come in plastic and nickel coated brass (Phil’s Philler). I use the latter. The former is soft plastic and will bend with time and become difficult to use. The metal version is more durable but reacts slowing with the bleach somewhat. To deal with this and avoid a black deposit on the bucket where it touches place it in the large glass or mug inside the bucket. Immerse all in the bleach and leave 30 min. Rinse well in warm tap water in the sink being very careful not to touch anything nonsanitized. Your hands should be wet with the bleach solution so they are ok. As you rinse each piece place eahc in a clean spot. Start with the pump and place it in the secondary fermenter and then the tubing and attach to the pump. The hygrometer is placed in the cylinder on the counter and the cane is placed in the glass/mug on the counter too. Lastly, rinse out the bucket and place on the counter. Rinses should be 5-6 times and done well to thoroughly remove the bleach.

4. Also about 30 min before the bottles are ready prepare 0.75 to 1 cup of dextrose (bottling sugar) in 3 cups filtered water and bring to a boil - simmer 15 min then turn off but leave it on the burner (watch for boil overs as you reach boiling). Immerse about 55-60 caps in a pot of water and bring to a boil and simmer 15 min. You should place a large spoon in the sugar solution to stir and sanitize and a large slotted spoon in the caps to do the same. Ensure they re supported and will not fall out.

5. As you approach the end of all this preparation assemble your capper. Place a chair near the secondary fermenter and have a helper sit in it (pour them a home brew to keep them content during this preparation period). If you have prepared some bottling yeast for repitching get it out of the refrigerator and have it near at hand. Yeast reuse is described on my blog (http://frogsbottom.auburnbrewclub.org).

Bottling

1. Have your helper sit in a chair by the secondary with the bucket on the floor and siphon the beer carefully into it (if this has taken some time another beer may be needed).

2. As you begin siphoning collect some beer in the cylinder and take your final gravity. Many people miss this opportunity and never know how complete fermentation really was or their ABV - this is your big moment! Ensure an absolute minimum of aeration by running the beer down the side of the bucket - avoid oxidation!

3. When about 1 gallon is transferred carefully dump the sugar solution into the transferred beer and stir well with the spoon while continuing to siphon beer. The beer volume will buffer the heat of the boiling sugar solution.

4. Once about 4 gallons is transferred dump in about 2 tablespoons of the prepared yeast (if you plan to do this) and mix thoroughly. Continue racking to the end and get as much of the beer as you can. Transfer of a little sediment will not be a problem. Remember it settled out once!

5. Remove the siphon pump and place in the bucket being very careful not to touch any surface that will also touch the beer. Stir very well to ensure complete mixing. This is critical and more difficult than it seems as the sugar is dense and will resist a casual stirring effort. Carefully raise the bucket onto the counter.

6. Place the cane on the effluent end of the siphon tube (be careful not to contaminate the end). Get rid of the chair and tell your helper to sit on the floor near the bucket (hand them another beer if necessary to get compliance).

7. Get several bottles out of the dishwasher (this should be closed between bottle retrieves) and place them on the floor near your helper. Remember they are sanitized! Retrieve your caps and capper so they are close by.

8. Begin bottling by siphoning into the bottles - avoid overfills! Fill to about 1 inch from the top. Your helper needs to raise the cane at the end and then pause as it drains for a moment before moving to the next bottle. That’s their job and takes a little Karma to make work without spilling beer.

9. You then take each filled bottle and carefully place a cap on the lid and cap it with the capper. Retrieve caps with the sterile slotted spoon and then the edges with your fingers. Do not contaminate the inside. If you drop one ignore it - they can be reused. Always sterilize a few extra in case. Move the capped bottle to the side and repeat until you are finished. Be sure to keep your helper supplied with bottles. Always have a few empty sanitized bottles ahead of them. They can not do much as they must protect the sterile cane. Failure to keep them supplied usually makes your helper quite cranky!

Post-Bottling Storage

1. The outside of the bottles should be rinsed in cold water to remove any beer and allowed to drain on a cloth, the caps wiped dry and then a label marked on top or applied with a sticker (I use a sharpie). You can turn on the A/C now.

2. Once dry and labeled, place bottles in carriers and store dark and cool until carbonated.

3. Dextrose will take about 2 weeks although you can test one at about 7 days and DME (dry malt extract) will take about twice as long. If you plan to substitute use 1-1.25 cups of DME as fermentables are a little lower than dextrose (D-glucose). I usually use wheat DME for Hefeweisens to maintain that wheat flavor.

4. Now you can have a home brew! You just have to thoroughly clean all your equipment.

5. NOTE: If you use a siphon tube without a pump you can start the siphon by filling the tube with clean cold tap water and pinching the ends and then immersing them. Alternatively, you can suck on the effluent end but this risks contamination although your helper usually gets to do this and really enjoys the beer rush! I really recommend the pump!

Cheers! Curt.

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